If you are here for House MD Socks – I’ve included the House chart at the end of the Holiday Sock pattern, follow the Holiday Sock directions, and just substitute the House chart for the candy cane chart.
Our guild is having a one-sock exchange as part of our holiday calibrations. The theory is that it is easy to knit just one sock; it’s the second sock that takes the most effort. So an ingenious person came up with the idea that we each knit one sock, package it up in a bag with the instructions and yarn for the second sock then exchange it with someone else’s. It sounded like a fun challenge, all I had to do next was to find a sock pattern that wasn’t too difficult, but not too easy either. Problem was I couldn’t find anything that was just right.
It was Friday night and I was flipping through stitch dictionaries (Isn’t that want everyone does on a Friday night?), and I saw this stitch pattern in the Reader’s Digest, The Ultimate Sourcebook of Knitting and Crochet Stitches. It was called Fish Hooks, and I thought to myself, “Bird (because that is what I call myself), those look just like upside down candy canes, I wonder what they would look like in socks.”
So it began, I took the line by line instructions and turned them into a nice, easy to follow chart, adjusted it a little bit to be good for socks and to make them look more like candy canes and less like upside down hooks. I found some yarn at my LYS, brought it home, and cast on.
The first sock I made was too wide, so I frogged it and began again. The second time make a very narrow sock – now I like tight socks, but not everyone does. I think most people would like the larger size as it is slightly loose on a woman’s medium foot. For an in-between size, take the larger directions and go down one needle size, or take the smaller directions and go up one needle size. These are your socks so don’t be afraid to play around with them a little bit.
While watching “A Bit of Fry & Laurie” one night, I saw Steven Fry knitting (or a very close approximation of it) and I thought to myself, “Bird, why not make these House MD socks?” It seemed to me a good idea, so I’ve included a chart for a longer more cane like motif for all those House MD fans out there. Just substitute the House chart for the Candy Cane chart and follow the directions as you like.
As always, if you have any questions, comments, &c. just leave a comment here or contact me on Ravelry and I’ll do my best to help you out. I love hearing feed back, so feel free to let me know how it goes. Also, feel free to use this pattern for YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE ONLY. You can knit one for yourself, knit one for a gift for a friend, heck, knit one to give to all your friends if you like (best knit two for each friend though, it’s a safe assumption that the majority of people have two feet, but you need to judge that on a friend by friend basis). Please do not sell this pattern or socks made for it – it’s wrong, it’s disrespectful, and it’s also illegal is some parts. Please knit respectfully.
Holiday & House Socks:
2 skeins Sisu Superwash 80% wool, 20% nylon
2.5 mm needles (see above for using different needle sizes to obtain a sock in the middle size range)
blunt needle for weaving in the ends.
See above for sizes – I’ve written the pattern in two sizes (narrow sock, wider sock) and you can achieve a middle range by changing the needle size
Cast on (48, 56) stitches.
Knit 1x1 rib for 12 rounds (as in the 12 days of Christmas)
Knit stst for 6 rounds.
Knit in stst until sock measures approximately 15cm (6”) from cast on.
The heel is worked on ½ of the total number of stitches. Put half the stitches on a stitch holder or the like, we will start working with them again once the heel is turned.
s1 (slip one stitch knitwise), k1 – repeat these two sts to end, turn.
s1 purl back.
repeat these two rows 15 times (more or less depending on your foot)
s1, knit to center + 5sts (17, 19 sts), ssk, turn
s1 p10, p2tog, turn
s1 k10, ssk, turn
repeat these last two rows until all heal sts are worked.
We go back to knitting in the round now. If you are not there already, knit to end of heal stitches. Pick up and knit 15 sts along the side of the heel flap. Place marker, knit sts for top of food (those are the ones you put on a stitch holder earlier), place marker. Pick up and knit 15 sts along the other side of the heel flap. K6 sts.
You should now be at the bottom center of the foot. This is where the round begins for the rest of the sock.
Knit the first round, where you picked up the sts, knit into the back loop.
Next round, knit until two sts before first marker, k2tog. Knit until past second marker, ssk. knit rest of round.
K one round
Repeat these two rounds until you have the original total number of sts left (45,56).
Knit stst until 2.5cm (1”) prior to desired length.
I did a spiral toe to keep with the candy cane motif. Feel free to use a different kind of toe if you like.
Arrange so that the stitches are distributed evenly over three needles (or close to it in the case of the larger size sock) and the beginning of the round and gap between two needles is at the bottom center of the foot.
On the first needle knit until two sts before end of needle, k2tog. Repeat this for each needle and keep going likewise until 6 (ish) sts remain. Break yarn and thread through the remaining sts.
Weave in ends, make another one, put on Christmas movie (or an episode of House, or even better a Christmas episode of House) and enjoy.
For both charts, do you see there is one vertical line that is darker than the rest? Further up the chart where it zigs in, this is to guide you for the first cane of each round only. For example when you come to line 13, you have just finished one round of stst. Instead of k2tog on what would normally be the first stitch of round 13, knit it simple stst, then at the line begin in pattern and continue as if nothing unusual had occurred until the end of the round. At the end of the round you will see that you have one too few sts to complete the pattern. Use the stitch that you knit in stst at the beginning of the round to complete the pattern. Confused yet? It makes a lot more sense while you are actually knitting it.
If you get too muddled up, drop me a line. If you think of a better way of explaining it, I would love to hear it.
Holiday Candy Cane Chart:
House MD Chart:
These socks were a real adventure to make. I am new to spinning and hadn’t successfully spun sock yarn before. So I was very nervous as to how this yarn would turn out. In the end, it was more frightening than difficult. I think this is a good project for new spinners who want to challenge themselves and play with colour.
ETA (Mar 2008): this pattern is not written for an absolute beginner. It assumes the knitter has some basic skills at following a pattern. If you get stuck on the abbreviations, I have a list in the sidebar to the right of this page which will help with that. Of course, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment here or to contact me on Ravelry. I'm always willing to help to the best of my abilities.
The reason why I don't write out every little detail in a pattern is that I encourage the knitter to adjust it to their liking. Patterns are starting points and you, as the knitter, are capable of creating great art if you aren't too hemmed in by a pattern's restraints.
- 100g (just under 4oz) of hand dyed roving (merino is nice)
- Something to spin it on (a wheel or a spindle)
- A lazy kate is very helpful for plying
- Some knitting needles (in my case 2.25mm)
- A darning needle
- A sense of adventure
- Optional: Two packets of sock support (it has another more German sounding name I can’t remember at the present moment – but I like sock support better.)
To make the sock:
Approximate gage: 32 stitches = 4 inches in stst with 2.25mm needles. This is very fine, but it will vary depending on the yarn you spin. This is your own creation, so feel free to try a different gage and or a different needle size.
Cast on 60 stitches.
Work in knit two purl two ribbing for about 15 cm (6”). Now it is time to begin the heal.
The Heal: (this is a Dutch heal with a slip stitch flap – but feel free to make what ever sort of heal you feel most comfortable with)
Divide the stitches so that thirty stitches are on one needle and the other thirty stitches are ready to be ignored for the next little while. What follows uses the 30 ‘live’ stitches only and we will get back to those other fellows later. Also, this is where you start the sock support thread if you like.
Starting on the right side:
- (s1, k1) repeat across to end.
- s1 and purl back across.
Repeat these two rows 15 times. This creates the heal flap.
Now to turn the heal:
- s1, k19, ssk, turn and work the other way.
- s1, p10, p2tog, turn
- s1, k10 ssk, turn
Repeat rows two and three until there is nothing left to decrease with (should be 12 ‘live stitches’ left) At this point break the sock support thread (not the good yarn!) and then we will finish off the heal. This next part is where it is really nice to have that fifth sock needle, but you can do it without.
If you ended on a purl round, knit across your live stitches. Along the edge of the heal flap, pick up and knit 15 stitches and make certain to note where those stitches end and the 30 stitches for the top of the foot begin (either with a stitch maker or by keep those 30 stitches on their own needle). This is where we will be doing the decreasing at soon.
Knit across the top stitches (the 30 you put aside earlier), mark where they end and pick up and knit 15 stitches along the other edge of the heal flap. Make a mental note (or use a stitch marker) that the beginning of each round is now at the centre bottom of the foot.
Knit one round; however, for each of the stitches you just picked up, knit into the back loop. This twists them and makes them look nicer.
Now some decreasing:
- knit until two stitches before marker (between picked up stitches and the 30 top stitches), k2tog. knit the 30 top stitches, ssk and then knit to the beginning of the round.
- knit all around.
Repeat these two rounds until 60 stitches remain. Then knit in good old fashioned stocking stitch until 4-5 cm (1 and a half to two inches) shy of desired length.
The Toe: (Again, if you already have a style of doing toes that you like, go ahead. This style makes a pointy toe, but I find it more comfortable that way.)
At this point you can begin the sock support thread if you wish.
Remember how we had divided between the 30 top stitches of the sock and the (now 30) bottom stitches of the sock – let’s do it again. I like to do this by rearranging them on the double points, but stitch markers work well. If you look at the sock from the top (as if it was on the foot and you are looking at it from the top of the foot) the row now begins the first stitch after the right hand stitch marker.
- (k1, ssk, k until 3 sts before next stitch marker, k2tog k1.) repeat for the second/bottom half.
- knit all around.
Repeat these two rows until 12 sts remain. Graft toe with kitchener stitch.
Weave in your ends and wear your socks with pride.
As usual: This pattern is free of charge for personal use. Hopefully it is written in a way that allows you to adjust it as you wish. If you have any questions, comments, notice any errors, &c. Please leave me a note and I will see what I can do.
This pattern takes some very basic sock elements and puts them together. I’m certain I’m not the first one to make socks like this. As far as I can tell these elements of sock construction have been in use for the last few hundred years and are therefore considered public domain. However, if you feel I’ve infringed on copy right, let me know, provide proof, and I will do my best to remedy the situation.
ETA 19.12.07: Fixed the body instructions so that they work better. Also fixed a bit of spelling and the like
Elephant Tea Cozy
Elephants on the Tea
This is a free pattern that you may use for your own personal use. If you like, make one for yourself and one for your friend. Make a hundred elephants, each a different colour, to decorate each and every teapot of your rather large collection. If it makes you happy, it is quite alright by me. But I do ask; please do not make this object to sell. Not only is it disrespectful, it’s down right mean (Do I have to mention illegal in many parts of the world?). With that in mind, please enjoy this pattern, made for you, by me.
If you have any questions or comments, stop by my blog (trampled by geese - http://itissunnyatebertshome.blogspot.com/ ) and drop me a line.
I used Peruvian Highland Wool from elann.com because it is cheep, cheerful, and because it felts easily (an extra bonus if you want the tusks to come out nicely). Feel free to substitute any worsted weight wool of your choice. You only need a little bit of light colour for the tusks, so if you have something in your stash, even better.
The pattern as written fits the average 4 cuppa Brown Betty tea pot rather tightly. Feel free to adjust the size of the body to fit your pot. When on the tea pot, the spout becomes the trunk of the elephant.
Peruvian Highland Wool from elann.com. 100% wool, 50g / 100m. Dark Purple
A little bit of light colour wool, in my case, same above in Light Purple
2 buttons for eyes (or embroidery thread to stitch some on, googly eyes, or whatever)
Knitting needles – 4.5mm (or what works best for you)
Gage, 10cm = 20sts, 26 rows in stst.
Body: (make two)
CO 40sts, rows 1-6 work 1x1 rib. Rows 7-28 (22 rows) work stst.
(NB: knit rows are odd number rows)
Row 29 – k1, ssk, k until 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1.
Purl one row.
Repeat these two rows one more time (36sts remain).
Row 33 – K1, ssk, k8, place marker, ssk, k10, k2tog, place marker, k8, k2tog, k1.
Purl one row.
Row 35 – K1, ssk, k to marker, slip marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1
Repeat these two rows five more times (6 sts remain).
Place remaining sts on a spare bit of yarn or stitch holder.
When both halves are made, join the top with 3 needle bind off, or for a smoother finish use ktst. Sew up sides using mattress st, leaving a gap for both handle and spout.
Ears: (make two)
These are made in gtst.
CO 8 sts.
K 1 row.
(Increase one st at the begining and at the end of each row every second row) four times (16 sts total)
K 1 row
(Increase at beg. of row, k to end or row. K 1 row.) twice.
Next two rows, k2tog at beg and end of rows.
Tusk: (make two)
These are made in stst
CO 12 sts.
4 rows of stst.
(K2tog at beg and end of each knit row) twice.
k2tog to end
P2tog to end (2 sts left)
Cut yarn, leave enough to sew up.
pull yarn through last sts, pull tight, sew up tusk to make a cone’ish shape.
I felted/fulled the tusks by hand in some hot water. It makes the fabric denser and the tusks look more tusk like. It also hides any errors in the knitting and allows you to shape the tusks to your liking when you block them to dry.
Place the body on the teapot. Position ears, tusks and button eyes where you like them. Secure with pins. Take it off the pot and sew everything up. Tuck in the ends and put the kettle on.
It's important that you use a yarn with 100% wool (or some but not all other animal fibers) content that is not washing machine safe. Otherwise it won't felt and you will be sad.
You can use any colour pattern; however, a pattern with large chunks of colour shows up best. It's best if you choose contrasting colours as the edges of the design blend together as you full. Have fun, experiment, feel free to share your creation with me by leaving a comment here with a link to your blog.
One more thing, technically, this isn't felting. A true felted object is produced quite differently. The process of knitting a structure out of wool yarn, then shrinking and condensing it to desired size and consistency is called fulling.
Two contrasting colours of Peruvian Highland Wool from Elann.com or any worsted weight all wool yarn suitable for fulling.
4.5mm double point needles
- Cast on 25 sts in main colour (dark)
- Knit flat
- 5 rows stst, make button hole (you can omit this and use a different means of fastening the flap), 5 more rows stst.
- Change to contrasting colour, knit two rows stst.
- Begin pattern (see graft, or make your own.) - note, you have one more stitch than pattern repeat, this is for semitry, just knit the next line of the patter as if you were continuing with the established pattern. - For the flap, I knit the pattern with inverted colour combination so that the light yarn is the background. For the body I reversed the colours to make a nice contrast. See photo. But you can do as you like.
- When completed 3 pattern repeats, use both colours and cast on 23 more sts. Join to work in the round. At this point you can invert the colour pattern if you like.
- Continue pattern as established until more than twice the length of the flap (Remember, it knits about 40% larger of what you want to the finished project to be as it will shrink when fulled).
- Using both colours, 3needle bind off.
- Sew in ends.
I like fulling by hand best as I have the most control of when to stop. Fulling takes place when you apply temperature differences, moisture and agitation to wool. Here's how I do it.
- Fill a sink with water as hot as you can stand it and a little bit of mild, eco-friendly soap. Put the object in the sink, squeeze it a bit and leave it for 10 min to soak up the water.
- Agitate the object in the water as much as possible. For me this involves rubbing it against itself between my knuckles like crazy. Others have a wash board they rub it against.
- When you are tired, drain the sink, fill it with clear cold tap water. Agitate.
- Take a break, stretch your arms, empty the sink again, fill it with hot (not too hot as to burn yourself) water. Agitate.
- Keep repeat these last two steps until your project is the correct size. (for me, two times tends to do it).
- Block your object to desired shape, allow to dry. This can take up to three days depending on the weather.
- Sew on a button or fastener.
Now you are done.
As usual, if you have any questions or comments, &c. leave a comment here.
I call these socks my BC socks because they use a brioche stitch and my very first pair are knit out of Clematis yarn. This socks pattern fits a woman’s medium foot. It’s easy to make longer or shorter as you knit. If you want to make it wider or thinner it is easiest to do so in by adding or subtracting 5 stitches to the total number of stitches (one pattern repeat).
k: knit stitch
p: purl stitch
st (sts): stitch (stitches)
ktbl: Knit to back loop. This creates a twisted knit-stitch which makes the ribbing stand out more than the regular knit stitch.
m1: Make one stitch by lifting up the strand of yarn between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to. Put it on your left needle so that it enters from front to back and ktbl.
k2tog: Knit two stitches together as one.
ssp: Slip two stitches knitwise, place back on left needle, purl both stitches together (through the back loops) as one stitch.
k3tog: Knit three stitches together as one.
sssp: slip three stitches knitwise, place back on left needle, purl all three stitches together (through the back loops) as one.
Yarnover (O): before a knit stitch, bring the yarn to the front between the two needles, then over the top of the right needle to the back so that it is ready to knit the next stitch.
Reverse yarnover (RO): This used for the heal of the sock and on the only for the purl side of the knitting. Interweave Knits does a better job at explaining this than I ever could (summer 2007).
Brioche stitch: This stitch is worked over two rounds. The first round, the stitch is slipped (purlwise) while making a yarnover at the same time. Bring the yarn over the right needle from front to back, slip the stitch purlwise, then bring the yarn between the needles ready to purl the next stitch. On the second round, you purl the yarnover and purl stitch together.
Eastern Cast-On: This is a bit tricky to explain and I think that Interweave Knits does it best. This is from their Summer 2007 issue which has a very in depth explanation on how to knit toe up socks (available in most libraries).
Stuff you need:
100g /400 m (approx.) of sock yarn.
A set of 2.5mm double point needles
8 sts / 1” or 32 sts /4” (10cm) in stocking stitch.
A ‘blunt’ needle for threading in the ends and casting off.
Yarn of your choosing
How to make a Toe-Up BC Sock:
Using the Eastern Cast-On, cast-on 12 stitches and knit one round.
Divide stitches so that half the stitches are on one needle (these will be the top of the sock) and the other half are divided equally between two needles (these stitches will be the bottom of your sock). Make note of where the side gaps are (either mentally or by placing stitch markers)
K1, m1 k to one stitch before the other side, m1 k1. Do the same for the bottom (or top, depending on where you started).
Repeat this round until you have 28 sts. K one round.
Repeat these two rounds until you have 60 sts.
The bottom sts are simple stst (knit every round), these are the sts on two needles. The top stitches (on the single needle) begin the brioche twisted knit-stitch rib now.
BC rib pattern (for top half of stitches) is repeated over five sts.
o Set up row: (ktbl, p3, ktbl) repeat.
o Row one: (ktbl, p1, O sl-p-wise (bring yarn to back over top of right needle, slip next stitch purlwise, bring yarn to front of knitting between the needles) p1, ktbl) repeat.
o Row two: (ktbl, p1 purl yarn over and slipped st together, p1, ktbl) – repeat.
Continue in this way until sock is equal to the length from the tip of your big toe to the centre of the ankle bone. End on row one of the BC rib pattern.
This short-row heal is far more difficult to describe than it is to do. Basically, what you do is work the bottom half of the sts back and forth, each time working one less st. Then, once you’ve had enough of that, you start going so that you work back and forth, but this time working one more st each row. Sounds fun? As above, I rely heavily on Interweave Knits Summer 2007 article on knitting toe up socks. There are other explanations around, but theirs is the clearest I’ve seen.
Set aside the top half of the sts on two needles. For the heal we will only use the bottom half of the sts.
Knit across the heal sts until one st remains to be knitted. Do not knit this st. Turn your work so that you can purl.
RO (yarnover backwards) and purl until one stitch remains. Do not knit this st. Turn.
O an knit until 3 sts remain on the needle. These stitches are the original st that you did not knit, the yarnover and one more st. The yarnover and the new stitch sort of clump together, and we will be going back and forth in this fashion until just before the pair. Turn.
RO and purl until before the paired sts (3 sts remain on the needle). Turn.
Repeat these two rows, each time knitting or purling until just before the paired sts, until 12 sts remain in between the yarnover pairs. When that occurs, we begin to increase the amount of sts we work each time. (in theory, you should be on a knit row next)
Knit until the paired sts. There should be one knit stitch and one yarnover. K1. Adjust the yarnover so that it sits like a regular stitch (move onto right needle then put back on left needle accordingly). K2tog (knit the yarnover with the first stitch of the next pair). Turn.
RO and purl back until the first paired sts on that side. P1. ssp. Turn.
O and knit until you reach the paired sts (these will be the ones you made on the previous row). K1. Now you have two yarnovers next to each other. Adjust them so that they sit like a regular stitch on the needles by slipping both of them onto the right needle and then slipping them back (twisting them) individually onto the left needle. K3tog. Turn.
RO and purl until the paired sts. P1 and sssp.
repeat these last two rows until all the heal sts have been worked. In theory there should still be a yarnover at each side of the heal. These you will k2toghether (through the back loop) with the first and last top stitch on the next round. This stops a gap from forming at the ankle.
Divide sts evenly (20 per needle) between the three needles. Make a mental note (or stitch marker) of where the round begins.
As you ended the foot on a yarn over round of the brioche stitch you can simply work the second round of the stitch (the one where you purl the slipped stitch and the yarnover together). pattern.
For the heal stitches, you need to work one set up round where you (ktbl, p3, ktbl) repeat.
Now everything should be ready for the regular stitch pattern (see foot section). Work until desired length (I made mine ankle socks).
Bind off in a VERY loose manner. This can involve binding off in the regular way, but using larger needles, or you can try this method from, you guessed it, Interweave Knits.
All technical images are from Interweave Knits magazine. I can't tell you enough of how great this magazine is. These are only a sample of the wonderful things they produce.
As always, if you have any questions, comments, corrections, &c. please leave a comment. I hope a top down version of this socks is on it's way soon. But who knows what the knitting fates have in store for me.
Less than 100g of wool, washed and carded (light grey).
Most of the yarn was plied with both strands being grey, but I had a bit of grey left over on one bobbin, so I plied it with some white. I used this to make a horizontal stripe towards the top of my hat. When it ran out, I returned to grey.
- CO: 80 sts for small (88 sts for medium to largish hat). Join and knit in the round.
- Knit 2x2 rib for 8 rows.
- Stst for 8 rounds.
- Dec. 4 sts every 2nd round 4 (8) times. You can place 4 stitch markers evenly around the hat and K2tog just before each one.
- Dec. 4 sts every round until 46 (48) sts remain. (see above)
- Dec. 8 sts per round until only 4 sts remain. Place 4 more stitch markers halfway between each of the other stitch makers. Knit until two sts before each marker, k2tog, repeat.
- Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches. Tie and hide ends.
As always, if you have any questions, comments, &c. Leave a message. The patterns here are still 'in the works' so to speak, and I am open to any suggestions.
To be honest, I'm not well pleased with how the sweater has stood up to wear. If I would to use this yarn again, I would par-felt/full it before wearing it to make it, hopefully, pill less. If you are going to replace the yarn, choose a yarn made of 100% animal fiber, preferably not too smooth. The steek edges want to felt to the sweater a little bit to stop the whole thing from falling apart.
It also helps to make certain the neck is deep enough before BO the shoulders.
Yarn: Peruvian Highland Chunky from Elann.com
Sweater is worked in the round from the bottom up. Fits snug on 40" bust.
- CO 140sts. Join and work in round. 1x1 rib. for 2inch/5cm.
- Change to Stst. Next round. Inc 14 sts evenly (154sts total). Work even until sufficient length to begin underarms (around 12", but you know your size better than I do).
- Divide stits in half and place marker for each half - ideally, at the beginning of the round and 77 sts from that marker. This is where the arms are going to be. The next round, you will place the 4 sts either side of these markers on a scrap of yarn (easiest) or st. holder so that you can use them later when you knit the arms. That makes 8 sts per arm, or 16 sts total. Where you put the sts on holder you will CO 5sts for making the steeks. (confused yet? Leave a comment and I'll do my best to clarify. Sadly there are few web resources on how to steek, but try these: Steeks, Knitty on steeks, and my personal fave. resource for this, And She Knits Too!.)
- Dec 1st each side of arm steeks each round for 3 rounds.
- Keep knitting stst until your are ready to begin neck. Place center front 23 sts on holder for the neck and CO 5 sts across the gap.
- Dec 1st each side of neck steek every second round 4 times.
- knit even until sufficient depth for neck and arms (give yourself more than you think you need).
- Place back center 31 sts on holder for neck and 3needle bind off each shoulder (so that the ridge is on the inside).
- Cut steeks for neck, pu sts around edge and ones on holders. You could use smaller needles for this if you like, I had to try a few times to get the neck right and I'm still not happy with it. 1x1 rib, until desired length. BO.
- Arms: cut steeks, PU about 2 sts for ever 3, or 3 for ever 4. Again, I had trouble to get this just perfect, so try you might have to try it a few times until you get it right. Do the math (#sts picked up -( # sts want for wrist + 10) = how many sts to dec). Divide this number in two, that's how many decs you need to make. Knit stst until reach 1" short of desired length, decreasing every 8 rows or so. Dec 10 sts evenly around row. 1x1 rib for 1". BO and do other arm.
The pattern needs some work, but I think an experienced knitter can get the gist of this. Leave a comment if you need some help doing the math or just clarification in general.
To start with, this isn’t the most creative sock pattern on the internet, in fact, this is a very plain pattern designed to highlight the lush colour and texture of Sea Wool. I’m certain that others’ have made socks to these specifications before. Even so, I want to share with you what I did in hopes of inspiring you to adapt these socks to fit your needs.
Sea Wool by Fleece Artist
70% Merino, 30% Seacell
For the heal and toe, I added some support wool, that is, I knitted it together with the main yarn, I buy mine from elann.com for dirt cheep, but you can find it at almost any yarn shop. You need about one and a half (40m) cards or as I do, 3 cards per 2 pairs of socks.
aprox. 8sts/1”, or 32sts/4”, or 32sts/10cm
CO 60 sts. Join and work in round.
1x1 rib for 13 rows.
Stst for 5” or 13 cm.
Flap heal with Dutch turn: Divide the sts in half, so that you will put 30 sts to one side and use the other 30 sts to make the heal. ((s1, k1) until end. Turn. s1, purl to end. Turn) repeat 13 times or until the length of the heal flap is equal to the width. Make note of the center 8 sts. k 19sts so that you are on the far side of the center 8 sts, k2tog, turn. sl1, purl 8sts, p2tog. Turn. (s1, k8 Should be one stitch shy of the gap, k2tog. Turn. s1, purl 8, p2tog. Turn) repeat until all heal stitches are used and 10 sts remain for the heal.
Instep: Knit to end of heal, pick up stitches along edge of heal flap, knit top stitches (these should be on a needle all by themselves so that you can tell them apart later on), pick up stitches along other side of heal flap. You should have too many stitches. For the next row, knit into the back loop of the newly picked up stitches to twist them. Row begins at center bottom of sock. (knit until two stitches prior to top stitches, k2tog, knit top stitches, at start of next needle ssk, knit rest of round. Knit next round) – repeat until 60 sts remain.
Knit until 1.5 inches short of desired length.
Toe: make a note of the center side stitches. Row starts at bottom of foot. (knit until 3 sts shy of edge st, k2tog, k1. k1, ssk, k until 3 sts shy of edge st, k2tog, k1. k1, ssk, knit to center bottom. Knit one round) – repeat until 4 sts remain. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, secure. Thread in ends. Make a second sock.
s1 – slip one stitch knit wise so as to twist the stitch.
k2tog – knit two together
p2tog – purl two together
ssk – slip slip knit.
stst – stocking stitch
(***) – indicates parts to repeat
As usual, if you have any questions, notice any mistakes, &c. Let me know.
This bag is designed to help you live life like a saint. Whether you are out on the town or hanging with friends, this reminder of the series The Saint, starting the loveable Roger Moor, will help keep your valuables safe and secure.
This saint bag is the perfect camouflage for the devilish aspects of your personality. The bag is constructed of 69% Acrylic and 31% Polyester with a 100% cotton lining. If this saint gets himself into some dirty trouble, please wash by hand in warm water, lying flat to dry.
Live Life Like a Saint Bag:
Maybe one day I'll type the patter out, but in the mean time, if you have any questions or cannot view the immages, leave a message here, I'll get back to you just as soon as I can.
Congratulations on receiving your new Tea Elephant. I hope he is settling in well. There is nothing quite as exciting as sharing your tea with good friends and a Purple Elephant.
There are a few things to be aware of in regards to your new tea elephant. First off, your tea elephant has neither gender nor name. Unlike regular elephants, Purple Tea Elephants are born hermaphrodites and only developed a gender when their owner names them. Take care in deciding a name, your Tea Elephant will develop a personality based on your choice.
Secondly, please be careful what you feed your Tea Elephant. Tea Elephants are known to get into all sorts of mischief and have been observed eating jube jubes. If this occurs, the Tea Elephant may become hyperactive and hide from you. Look for your Tea Elephant on the ceiling or in a chemistry class, they are among the most favourite hiding places for Tea Elephants, especially purple ones.
One last thing, if your Tea Elephant gets him or her self dirty, please, please, please, under any circumstances, DO NOT PUT YOUR TEA ELEPHANT IN THE WASHING MACHINE! Tea Elephants are made of 100% wool from Peru and will either shrink into a minnie elephant or disintegrate all together. Either way, your Tea Elephant will wreck havoc on your washing machine in retribution for being destroyed. The best way to clean a naughty Tea Elephant is to hand wash in cold water with mild soap. Do not aggravate or wring the wool, this too will cause your elephant damage.
Please enjoy your elephant with caution; Tea Elephants like to have fun and often don’t know their own strength. A well trained Tea Elephant will bring years of enjoyment and happiness to you.
How to make a Tea-Elephant:
If you have any questions, or cannot view the images, post your comments here. I'll get around to typing this out one day, but that day is not today.